Exploring Jeju & Seoul

A Family Trip to South Korea: Driving Through Jeju & Exploring Seoul

This trip to South Korea came at an interesting transition in my life. I had just quit my last bartending job, and before diving into a new role, I figured I should take some time to be with family—something that doesn’t happen often for me. I’ve always been the type to keep busy with work, so this was a rare chance to slow down and spend quality time with my parents, aunt, and uncle. Coincidentally, the trip also landed close to my birthday. Not that it mattered much—I’m not big on celebrations. For me, this was more about experiencing something together as a family.

We spent 2.5 days in Jeju and 2.5 days in Seoul, a mix of scenic coastal drives and bustling city life. I was the designated driver for the Jeju leg of the trip, something I was actually excited about. I take pride in knowing how to drive both left-hand and right-hand drive vehicles, and honestly, I just love driving. But as with any family trip, things didn’t go perfectly—there were a few hiccups along the way, especially related to the driving.

In terms of planning, I was both fortunate and unfortunate to not have to worry about it. My dad, who is half-retired, takes planning very seriously. He can spend months mapping out a trip, down to the smallest detail. This time, he only had a few weeks, but since I only confirmed my availability about a month and a half before we left, I wasn’t too involved in the process. That said, our family travel style is mostly the same—relax, soak in the culture, and just enjoy the atmosphere. For me, food is always a highlight, and I was definitely looking forward to what South Korea had to offer.

Returning to Korea was a refreshing experience. I had been there twice before as a kid, but I was so young that I barely remembered anything. This time, I saw the country with new eyes. Jeju Island, our first stop, felt both familiar and unknown. It’s a popular tourist destination, very welcoming yet mysterious in its own way. As an island separate from the mainland, we weren’t sure just how "countryside" it would feel—developed enough for tourists, but still with a raw, natural charm.

Why Jeju & Seoul?

Choosing a destination for a family trip can be surprisingly difficult—especially when everyone has different preferences. My parents, who are now semi-retired, actually travel more than I do. Their go-to destination has always been Japan, but since they visit so often, it was immediately ruled out. We tossed around a few other ideas, but the biggest challenge was the weather—my parents, aunt, and uncle weren’t keen on traveling somewhere too hot.

At first, I thought South Korea was off the table as well. I had always loved Korean food, but I remembered my parents not being particularly fond of it. That was almost a dealbreaker for me—if Korea wasn’t an option either, we might have just called the whole trip off. But then, my mom mentioned that in recent years, my dad had actually grown to appreciate Korean cuisine. While he still didn’t eat a lot, he enjoyed it much more now, and I suspect a big part of that shift was due to studies highlighting the health benefits of fermented foods like kimchi.

With Korea back in play, I was open to visiting any city. My dad did some research and found that Jeju and Seoul made the most sense—a mix of nature and city life, plus the itinerary was viable and relatively affordable. But another huge factor in the decision? Me. More specifically, the fact that I was going.

In our family, I’m the only one who actively takes on the role of driver during trips. My uncle does drive, but he’s getting older, and out of politeness, my dad wouldn’t ask him to take on the full responsibility unless he volunteered. So, when planning vacations, my parents look for destinations where having a driver is a major advantage—places like Jeju, Hokkaido, or Tainan, where public transportation might not be as convenient. Jeju, being a more spread-out island, was a perfect fit. Seoul, on the other hand, didn’t require a car, so it balanced things out well.

For me, the most exciting part of this trip was definitely the food and culture. Even though I knew Seoul had some of the best bars in the world, I wasn’t really thinking about that this time—I was with family, and since I had to drive in the mornings, drinking wasn’t exactly a priority.

Driving Through Jeju – Nature, Food & Family Travel

When I first got the rental car in Jeju, I was fully focused. It had been a while since I last drove, and I needed a moment to get back into the groove. But once I did, it felt smooth and familiar—almost like driving in the States again. One thing that did catch me off guard was the lane width. The roads in Jeju were a lot narrower than I expected, and even though I was sure I was centered in my lane, every time a bus or another vehicle passed by, it felt dangerously close. Other than that, driving was fun—just me, the road, and the open landscapes of Jeju.

Since my dad was in charge of planning, we covered a LOT of ground in just two and a half days. He has a very different travel style than I do—where I prefer to take it slow and soak in the atmosphere, he’s all about efficiency. Somehow, within that short time, we managed to visit Sinchang Windmill Coastal Road, Udo-myeon, Seongsan Ilchulbong Marine Provincial Park, the Hill of Storms, and even hike Hallasan National Park. It was exhausting, to say the least.

Jeju’s Food Scene – Low Expectations, Pleasant Surprises

Going in, I didn’t have high expectations for food in Jeju. Being a less developed island, I assumed the quality and variety of food would be limited. And honestly, I wasn’t wrong—it wasn’t anything mind-blowing. But at the same time, it wasn’t bad either. What Jeju does have is fresh seafood, and we made sure to have at least one really good seafood meal. The simple joy of eating something fresh, straight from the ocean, was enough to make up for the lack of exciting flavors.

Family Frustrations & Travel Struggles

While Jeju itself was great, my frustration level was slowly building throughout the trip. A big part of that came from my dad. He doesn’t drive, yet he had no problem giving me unnecessary backseat driving instructions the entire time. Then, to top it off, he planned a hike—in the scorching sun—without telling anyone beforehand. No sunblock, no umbrella, no sunglasses. We just showed up, completely unprepared, and had to deal with it.

Another point of frustration? Food portions. My parents are known for not eating much, but when we’re traveling, we at least try to order one dish per person so we don’t look rude. We already knew we wouldn’t be able to finish everything, but that didn’t stop my traditional Chinese parents from forcing me to finish all the leftovers. By the time we left Jeju, I was so stuffed, and had an upset stomach from all the over-eating.

A Surprise Find – The Booze

Despite all the little annoyances, there was one unexpected highlight in Jeju. On my last night there, I wanted to have some me time and decided to take a late-night walk. I wasn’t really looking for anything in particular—just a way to decompress. But somehow, I stumbled upon a speakeasy bar called “The Booze.” It was amazing. Not only was the atmosphere cozy and the cocktails well-crafted, but I also had a great time chatting with the bartenders. The head bartender, who had once worked at one of Seoul’s top bars, even gave me some insider recommendations for bars in Seoul. Now, I’m REALLY looking forward to bar-hopping in Seoul once we get there.

Exploring Seoul – A Different Kind of Adventure

Seoul was a complete contrast to Jeju, and honestly, I can’t say which experience I preferred. While Jeju offered scenic drives and nature, Seoul felt like a giant playground for exploration. I might be one of the weird ones who actually enjoys navigating a new city alone—almost like I’m on a “city hunt.” Reading maps, following directions, and arriving at different locations gave me a sense of excitement, almost like solving a puzzle.

Of course, we followed my dad’s travel plan, but I was the one doing most of the map-reading and leading. Every destination felt like uncovering the next clue, which made wandering through the city even more fun. I found myself constantly looking around, checking out shops, observing people’s styles, and soaking in Seoul’s lively urban energy. It was structured in the way most major cities are, with business hubs, shopping streets, and university districts, but it had its own distinct personality that kept things interesting.

We made sure to visit some of the most famous areas, but the real fun was diving into side streets and hidden alleys, following my dad’s research to find some of the best local spots. Unlike Jeju, where I was constantly focused on driving, Seoul felt much more relaxed. I could just roam, explore, and enjoy myself without worrying about the road.

Food & Drinks in Seoul

Seoul’s food scene was definitely something I was looking forward to—but my stomach had other plans. I’d say I was only able to eat about half of what I normally would, which was frustrating, to say the least. A lot of the famous street food stalls in Myeongdong and other areas were serving deep-fried or oily dishes, and I had to pass on most of them. I still managed to snack here and there, but I was definitely holding back more than I wanted to.

On the bright side, I could still enjoy drinks, and I have to say, Korea has a great drink culture. While I didn’t dive into non-alcoholic specialty drinks, a simple lemon soda ended up being a lifesaver in the summer heat—and surprisingly, it helped with digestion too.

That said, I still managed to squeeze in some bar-hopping. My list of recommendations from Jeju’s bartenders led me to Pine & Co, Alice, and Zest.

• Pine & Co was a hidden gem—its entrance was discreet, but once inside, the vibe was fantastic. The head bartender had worked a guest shift in Hong Kong, so we had a mutual connection before I even walked in.

• Alice in Cheongdam was known for its amazing cocktails and beautiful storytelling through its drinks. The presentation was elegant, and the flavors matched.

• And then there was Zest, arguably one of the top bars in Seoul. The bar’s zero-waste concept and minimalistic style were a standout. It was impressive how they managed to create such an eco-conscious atmosphere while keeping the cocktails elegant and tasty.

If I could do it all over again with a healthy stomach? I’d go straight for another round of Korean BBQ. I definitely didn’t get enough!

Seoul – A Fun Destination, But Better with Friends

Seoul was definitely a fun place to visit, but I think it’s a city best explored with a partner or a group of friends around your age. For a family trip, Jeju was a better fit. I can't help but imagine that if I came to Seoul alone or with friends, we’d probably be filming a version of Hangover: Asia. The fast-paced city life and nightlife could definitely lead to some wild adventures.

Looking back on this trip, I have to admit—someone like me, who loves trying new cuisines, was definitely a bit frustrated. But hey, that's just how it goes sometimes when you're traveling with family. You either deal with it or take the opportunity to educate them. At the very least, I think my parents have finally learned not to force me to finish all the leftovers! Despite the little hiccups, I still had a good time. It had its moments, and spending time with my parents made it worthwhile.

Travel Tips

If you're planning a trip to Jeju and Seoul, here are some quick pointers:

• Jeju is all about nature. If you love water activities, bring a swimsuit. Otherwise, sunglasses, hats, and sunblock are a must—especially if you're hiking or sightseeing outdoors.

• Driving in Jeju requires caution. The lanes are narrower than they seem, and while it feels similar to driving in the States, it’s best to stay extra aware, especially in the city. Also, Google Maps doesn’t work well in Jeju. Use Naver Maps instead. My trick? Look up places on Google Maps the night before using their English names, then manually locate and bookmark them on Naver Maps. Saves a lot of hassle!

• Navigating Seoul is easy with a T-Money card. It works like any rechargeable transit card, making it the best way to get around. If you're into collectibles, hold off on buying one at the airport—you might find special designs with your favorite cartoon characters in the city.

• Food options in Seoul are endless. There's just too much to try, so don’t stress over choosing. If you’re into bar culture, I highly recommend Pine & Co., Alice, and Zest. They’re all top-tier, and I’d vouch for them any day.

Maybe one day, if enough people ask, I’ll put together a Seoul bar guide—just like I did for Taipei.